The streets of downtown Reykjavik peel away from the stunning Hallgrímskirkja church and, on one of them, at Skólavörðustíg 15, is an innocuous shop frontage – 12 Tónar. Sitting centrally in the Venn diagram of necessities for many young(ish) urbanites, this store has the best of Icelandic music – and coffee.
It sounds like a utopian Scandi cliché. Genial audiophiles-cum-baristas advocate the wonder of vinyl and blended roasts, while Icelanders deliver niche music recommendations with impeccable accents and grammar in their second language. Both the staff and customers of 12 Tónar are effortlessly dressed, cultured and articulate.
But this place feels anything but contrived. It’s just another of the joys that this fascinating island delivers without arrogance. Also operating as an independent record label, 12 Tónar has been a hub for music makers, such as Bedroom Community, Sigur Rós and Björk, for many years; and it’s one of those music shops that is staffed by people just as passionate about the local music and arts scene as the musicians themselves.
My stumble into 12 Tónar began with an expertly made espresso – and ended with me parting with more króna than planned for, buying music I had never heard before, thanks to the passion and knowledge of the shop staff. Perusing the many lesser-known local artists it stocks is a lesson in the fascinating panorama of this island’s creative musicians, and this shop is a reminder of the warmth and good nature of the people who reside here.
Comments (…)
Sign in or create your Guardian account to join the discussion